Buying any second hand Honda Prelude you have to understand that almost all of this vehicles were involved in road accidents. Some of them were fairly repaired some was not. As a car built to a very high standard, Prelude’s panels should fit with a high degree of fit and finish. So large gaps are the signs of cheep workshops and not regularly serviced car. Usually these cars are good for several 100 thousand miles. Also you have to realize that as the driver’s car Honda Prelude was not designed for the calm moving so that reflects on the overall vehicle condition.

Engine

It will be great if you will have a possibility to examine engine from cold state. The cold engine has to work without any hammering and start from the first time. The little black smoke from the muffler at the start is bad but not critical. But the further smoking and smoking at high rpm is a very bad sign and can be enough to search another car. This will mean either worn rings, or cylinder bores. The smoke on startup is a probably worn valve guide, and/or valve stem steals. Also look for the oil leaks but it is also not critical, all leaks could be easily fixed but the leaking from the timing belt cover. This leaking will cost you a while.

Breaks

If you feel the steering wheels vibration while breaking at high speed be ready to change front disks or repair wheel rims. Then break hard several times until full stop. Get out of the car and carefully examine the breaking disks’ temperature. If cold then caliper is locked with rust. The locked caliper can be also detected visually. The break disk should be polished not rusty. Also check the parking break. If not working keep in mind that its repair is not cheep too.

Automatic Transmission

In general Prelude’s automatic transmission is bulletproof. If car is moving in “D” and “D3” modes the transmission is working fine. If the switching is bad or there is no torque then the transmission is working in the safe mode and need to be replaced. Also the vehicle has to start in the “2” position and does not switch anywhere. Also examine the ATM (Automatic Transmission Fluid). It should be red. Brown or yellow ATM should be replaced.

Manual Transmission

While riding try to change gear from 4th to 5th at high engine revs i.e. in VTEC in 4th (above 5000 rpm) and change quickly into 5th gear. If it is smooth, then great. If it grinds, or worse won't shift up, then you have developed the 5th gear selector fork problem. This is a known fault. It is something you will have to live with or pay to get fixed.

Body

Most of the panels and main structural chassis parts are galvanized from new, so rust is not usually a problem. The area which needs attention is usually the trailing edge of the rear wheel arches. Road grime collects there and eventually the first signs of rust start here. This is easily repaired though. The only other area is the window strips along the back window, and the rear quarter glass. These tend to look grubby, with some sort of surface corrosion. A regularly looked after car will not have these problems.

Suspension

Of course most precise suspension diagnostics can be done in the workshop but you can still make some examinations while riding. The slight hammering in the rear suspension while passing the pitfalls signs wear of rear stabilizer silent block bush. Creaking while turning the front wheels on the zero speed means the front lower ball-joint has to be replaced. Creak in front while moving – wear of silent block of the upper arm or bump stops of the front dampers. Once again, the best suspension diagnostics can be done at the professional workshop.

Steering

Check the racks and the tie-rods. Rod ends can be easily examined but the racks are more often damaged. Both of them are not cheep. Also try riding at mediate speed without holding the steering wheel. If car goes aside you have to check wheel alignment or the hardly damaged body lost its geometry.

4WS

Check that the light for the 4WS illuminates when you switch on the ignition. If it doesn't, then someone could be hiding a known fault with the system. Check that the fuse for the 4WS is in the fuse box, and that the bulb has not blown or been removed. Once you start the car, after a few seconds the yellow 4WS light should go out. With the engine running, open your car door, and turn the steering wheel, and watch for the rear wheels moving. If they are, then get going on your test drive, if the light remains on and the rear wheels are not turning then try to reset 4WS. Once engine is stopped the rear wheels should align straight.

VTEC

The VTEC system will only engage when the car has fully warmed up. So don't go for test-drive and immediately expect the VTEC system to kick in. You should not be thrashing any car whilst it is still cold, and the Prelude is clever enough to disable the system until it has reached a safe operating temperature and there is sufficient oil pressure for safe high rpm VTEC action.